Review: Smoque Steak Comes Out Sizzling
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Estimated reading time: 3 minutes (550 words)
In Chicago, Smoque is synonymous with top-tier barbecue. So when the owners of the barbecue joint announced they were opening a steakhouse I was immediately intrigued.
The restaurant’s stated objective is to provide an elevated yet affordable steakhouse experience. For a steakhouse, the concept is unique. Steaks are first smoked (unconventional), then sous vided (very unconventional), then seared to order. I was curious, but also skeptical. Smoking steaks is a risky proposition because it is easy to overdo and, if done poorly, can turn a perfectly fine ribeye into an ashtray. Sous viding can also produce a mushy texture if the steak is left in its water bath too long, and achieving a good crust can be hit or miss.
Fortunately for my visit, everything hit. I went to Smoque recently with my wife and some out-of-town family which provided an excellent opportunity to try a number of menu items. We each ordered starter cocktails, a bottle of wine for the table, one appetizer, three steaks, two sides, and two desserts (spoiler up front: the subtotal was under $300).
As a meal, the experience was comprehensive. The brie fondue appetizer would have fit in on a French brasserie menu but also worked well to kick things off while saving our appetites for everything else to come. The cheese was creamy as advertised and the dish was served in a cast iron skillet that ensured it stayed warm until the last bits were scooped up. The only issue was a four dollar fee for extra toasted bread, which we requested because five slices of crostini and a quarter baguette did not go far at our table.
But as at any steakhouse, the steak was by far the star of the show. We ordered the strip, filet, and the ribeye. The presentation was perfectly fine: the steaks came with small side salads (which were quite good) and small ramekins for the toppers; we added the red wine reduction and crispy shallots.
The first bite of steak sold me completely on the Smoque Steakhouse concept. The smoke was evident but not overpowering. It was present enough to know that other steakhouses aren’t doing this and that there is clearly room in the market for Smoque’s approach, yet by the end of the meal, it pleasantly disappeared into the mix. The sous vide worked well and each steak was pink from edge to edge and still retained its chew. The kitchen was even able to produce a nice crust on each cut. The sides (carrots and mashed potatoes) were approachable yet slightly elevated, slotting nicely into the larger concept.
Smoque’s drink menu is comfortable but unchallenging and features classics from martinis to Manhattans and everything in between. Likewise, the wine menu is well-curated and features good glass and bottle selections that run the gamut price-wise.
Desserts also stay in the classic-but-elevated lane. We ordered both the cheesecake and the butterscotch pot de crème. Both were excellent and priced fairly, if highly, for the size.
Smoque Steak has done something rare: it has put a new spin on an old concept and stuck the landing. It understands its own concept and infuses it throughout the menu and the restaurant. It is one of the best new openings in the city this side of Covid.
Left to right: brie, ribeye, cross section, butterscotch, cheesecake
Details
Stars: Four (out of four)
Price: $$ 1/2 (out of four)
Style: American, steakhouse
Atmosphere: Sleek, smooth, classic, industrial, approachable
Location:
3310 N. Elston Ave, Suite 400
Chicago, IL 60618
Website:
Star guide: one - poor, not worth time or money; two - mediocre, worth a visit on occasion; three - very good yet with issues; four - exceptional quality
Price guide: $ - cheap; $$ - affordable; $$$ - special occasion; $$$$ - rare opportunity